Major Franklin Pope

Major Franklin Pope

In the spring of 1994, I received a phone call from a gentleman who introduced himself as George Price. He was the great-grandson of Franklin Pope. He had traveled to Quesnel from his home in New Jersey on an odyssey to retrace his great-grandfather's steps.

The next day he drove out to see me and we discussed at length the Telegraph project and what we both knew about it. His wife took a picture of him standing on the actual trail, which he said, was a highlight of their trip.

He gave me a copy of Franklin Pope's diary, which had been handed down to him. He also gave me copies of several letters that the Major had written in 1865 concerning the Collins Overland exploration. I was thrilled to read this material for the first time. It was like having a ringside seat to the drama as history was being played out. Conway, Pope, Leech and Rothrock all left diaries and it is interesting to see how they intertwine.

Here, then, is Major Pope's contribution as presented by his descendant, George Price--

Diary of Franklin Leonard Pope

"Contained in a small, hard-covered book with a fly leaf identifying it as Clayton's Octavo Diary for 1866, it is believed to have been written during his exploration of northern British Columbia and southern Alaska during the winter of 1866. It is being transcribed by me, George Price, beginning in November, 1993. The transcription is quite difficult because the entries are hand written. While the penmanship is in a beautiful script, the ink has faded and the Victorian script is sometimes difficult to interpret, especially capital letters at the beginning of sentences and proper names. Punctuation also seems to be a problem and its absence makes for some confusing sentences. For this reason some words and phrases may be incorrectly transcribed.

The entries in the diary begin mid-February, 1866 at a place identified as Bulkley House, located at the northern tip of Lake Tatla in British Columbia. He was the leader of one of at least two exploration parties whose task it was to explore and map an area of northern British Columbia and southern Alaska, previously uncharted, in order to determine the route for a telegraph line to be run from San Francisco to Russia via the Bering Straits. Bulkley House, 1600 miles north of San Francisco and 350 to 400 miles north of Vancouver, B.C. was built by his party after their arrival there during the late summer or fall of 1865. From the time they first arrived and the start of this diary, they apparently were embarked on securing winter quarters and exploring the immediate area."

"Monday, Feb. 19th, 1866-- This morning, everything at last being in readiness, we set out on our long journey at eleven o'clock. The party were all in good spirits, though we could not help feeling much regret at leaving Bulkley House which has been such a pleasant home for us all this long northern winter. We shook hands all around with Doctor, Judge, Wamter and Vital and amid three rousing cheers for the Stikine Exploring Party, we set out upon the trail accompanied by Alexis Fern, Mrs. Alexis and her hopeful daughters and her mother, all well loaded. The woods were pretty thick and bothered us some with the sledge. We camped about seven miles from Bulkley House (Camp 1).

Tuesday, Feb. 20th-- Off early this morning. Alexis tried his hand at driving the dogs today and being an old hand at the business, succeeded admirably, swearing at them in French- Indian with the most wonderful effect. This has been a fine warm day and has thawed the snow some along the trail. Near the mouth of Clearwater River met Mrs. Alexander, Mrs. Pierre, Kofet and a yellow dog all en route for Lake Tatla. Dogs went pretty well, especially "Fan" and "Larmin". "Coffee" very lazy. "Chet" wild and continually jumping into holes and under trees alongside the trail to escape the whip. Camped a little below the mouth of the Kitsine River (No. 2).

Wed., Feb. 21, 1866-- Last evening, I witnessed the most magnificent display of the Aurora Borealis that I have ever seen, remarkable for its brilliancy and the variety and beauty of its coloring, far exceeding the celebrated Aurora of 1859 which I saw at Springfield, Mass. Set out at sunrise this morning and traveled along the river for some distance where the trail leads up a steep ascent to the top of the benches and runs along on this elevated plateau over nearly level ground covered in many places with burnt timber and interspersed with marshy ground. The dogs went well today, the trail being good. Camped on small marshy creek. Camp 3.

Thursday, Feb. 22-- The trail continues on today in a NW direction, really a straight course over the plateau steering for Bear Lake. The general character of the plateau continues the same as yesterday. Country undulating and the hollows invariably marshy. The opposite side of the valley about three miles distant appears to possess similar characteristics. The dogs went very well today except that I was amused to see them descending one of the hills when the "Daisy" comes down with great speed, tumbles the dogs all in a heap and runs over them. No damage was done, however. Camped in the woods on the plateau. (No. 4).

Friday, Feb. 23-- Today the trail continues in the same direction as yesterday over undulating ground, gradually descending to the Driftwood River which we reached early in the afternoon. As it was thawing considerably and the snow was wet and heavy making it wearisome for the dogs, we decided to camp on the bank of the river. The inevitable mosquito was seen "numerously" along the trail today. As soon as the thermometer is above 32* in British Columbia the "varmint" appears even if it is midwinter. Camp No. 5.

Sat., Feb. 24th-- We set out early this morning and a mile or two above the camp we left the Driftwood River at the mouth of Canoe Creek, turning to the left and following up the latter which issues from two small lakes two or three miles distant. Crossing a portage of 400 yards at the head of the upper lake, we came upon Bears Lake. This portage forms the divide or watershed between the waters of the Fraser and those of the Skeena. We kept on up the lake about six miles and camped at an Indian lodge on the east side above the fishery where we were hospitably entertained by Mrs. Bully and Mrs. Kean. Camp No. 6.

Sunday, Feb. 25th-- Started off this morning after a comfortable night's sleep, considering that there were 11 of us in all, men, women and children, who slept in the lodge last night although it is not over 13 feet square with a fire in the middle after the usual fashion of Indian lodges. We came on five or six miles over the lake to the fort. We found the place entirely deserted but effected our entrance through one of the cubicle windows where a wolverine had found his way before us and took possession. The wolverine, finding nothing to eat, had thrown things around rather indiscriminately but had however done no essential damage.

Mon., Feb. 26th-- The weather today has been stormy and we have remained about the house doing nothing in particular. A woman named Quilis, a sister-in-law of Alexis, made her appearance this afternoon and gave us a good bit of useful information about the route to the Stikine. She got down on the floor with Alexis and his wife and Fan, each with a piece of charcoal and amid violent exclamations and vehement gesticulations after the manner of Indians, marked down a plan of our route. The information was translated and explained by Alexis and I judge from it that the nature of the country is by no means unfavorable to our enterprise.

Tues., Feb. 27th -- Another stormy day and nothing doing in particular. Amused myself teaching Tom and his sister to write the English alphabet. "Fort" Connolly as it is called by courtesy, is a wretched building of logs about 20 feet square having but one room. The roof is leaky and covered with bark and the chimney smokes. The establishment looks hardly fit for a pig sty. I understand they talk of rebuilding it in the summer upon the opposite side of the lake near its outlet.

Wed., Feb. 28th-- The sun shines out pleasantly again today and I improved the opportunity to go out and beat a trail five or six miles on the road which we were to go. Found the snow deep and in many places very soft and the river entirely frozen as far as I went. Returned to the fort again in the afternoon.

Thurs., March 1, 1866-- This morning, accompanied by Tom, I started to make a reconnaissance a few miles down the river to see what condition the snow is and also, to beat a trail for the assistance of the dogs. Found the river mostly frozen over below where I went yesterday. We followed the Bear Lake River down to its junction with the Sustut and camped about a half mile below the forks on the north bank of the latter river.

Fri., March 2-- Today we went down the Sustut about eight miles and reached a place where, from the high bank of the river, I could see 10 or 15 miles ahead. The Sustut is 50 or 60 yards wide and thoroughly frozen excepting a few small spots. There is very little water in the channel. The ice is fully three feet thick and the snow not very deep. For five miles below the forks, the river passes through a narrow rock gorge or canyon about 200 feet deep with benches of washed gravel rising above it on both sides. These are, in general, scantily wooded. The Atnah Indians have a bridge at the above point of ingenious construction. It is 100 feet in length and is only supported at the ends. We returned and camped same place as last night.

Sat. March 3rd-- We started this morning about sunrise and returned to the Fort by the same trail which we came, arriving shortly after noon. Tom got among a flock of white partridges with his old flintlock gun and succeeded to down eight of them. This youngster is not by any means a bad shot.

Sun March 4th-- Everything quiet today. We all remained about the Fort doing nothing. We think of making a start for the Stikine tomorrow as the traveling on the river appears to be good.

Mon., March 5th-- We were all ready to start today, but as usual, our Indians were not so we consented to defer another day to give them a chance to get ready. About ten o'clock, Bully arrived from Bulkley House and Nakosla, bringing the whole crowd from the camp down on the lake, bag and baggage, cultus dogs and all. Bully reported that Doctor (Rothrock) and Vital, with Kenoshi as a guide, left three days ahead of him for the Atnah camp via Kitsine Pass. This must have been about the 28th. Butler had gone direct from Nakosla to Babine in company with Hamilton and had gone on to Rocher de Bouille before Hamilton returned.

Tues. March 6th-- This morning we got underway for Stikine once more. The party now comprises, in addition to myself, Mr. Blenkinsop, Tom and Alexis and also, old Quilis and a brother-in-law of Kearns. they are going to "pack" for us two or three days as we are very heavily laden. The dog teams consist of "Fan" our favorite dog, who is leader, "Larmin" a rascally black dog with a comical Scotch Presbyterian countenance, "Chet" a wild Indian wolf slightly civilized and "Coffee" a dog purchased of Kearns and said to be good for hunting but lazy to the last degree when on the sledge. The sledge, the "Daisy of Lake Tatla" is loaded with 400 pounds of provisions and baggage. Camped on river eight miles out. Camp 8.

March 7, 1866-- Started this morning in good seasons and kept on down the valley. Found the trail in good order as it had been frozen hard since Tom and I passed over it. "Larmin" went dead lame today from a fight he indulged in at Bear Lake, an amusement that he enjoys as well as any Irishman. We were obliged to take him out of the train but the other dogs had no sooner started again than the brute persisted in getting into his old place again, between "Tom" and "Chet" which resulted in a "mix". Finally by means of a big stick, we persuaded him to "march in the rear of the column". Encamped just above the Atnah Bridge on the Sustut (9).

March 8-- Kept on down the Sustut today about 12 miles. The going was pretty good and the valley broad and open. A high conical mountain, which I named Pyramid Peak, presents a striking and beautiful appearance from the river. The Sustut has decidedly the appearance of a gold bearing river, although it has never yet been prospected. The Atnah Bridge, which we passed under this morning, is certainly an ingenious structure. It is 100 feet in length and although composed of three lengths of timber, is entirely self-supporting. Camped on the river bank opposite the Pyramid Peak. Camp 10.

March 9-- On our way this morning at sunrise and reached the junction of the Sustut and the Skeena Rivers about nine or ten o'clock where our old friend Quilis bade us farewell and started her return to Bear Lake. She alone of the whole resident population of Tatla, Bear Lake and Nakosla, has predicted the success of our undertaking. All others, white, yellow and red, prophesy an ignominious failure for those foolish ones who will persist in trying to do what never has been done. In case we succeed, which we shall, I'll not forget you, old Quilis! The snow was soft on the Skeena and we had to camp soon after noon. Camp 11.

March 10-- The snow ahead on the river being apparently very deep and soft and hard for the dogs, I took Tom ahead to break the trail, while Blenkinsop and Alexis remained behind. They will remain over one day and repair the sledge. This will give our trail the advantage of one night of frost, which will make it much easier for the dogs. We found the snow as expected, very deep and soft. We were only able to make eight miles, the walking was so hard and camped on the shore. There was five or six feet of snow on the river most of the way. There appears to be a pretty high rapids about six miles from the mouth of the river.

March 11-- The crust is beginning to form on the snow, though not very strong yet, so we found the walking somewhat better this morning. The snow began to get soft about the middle of the forenoon and the walking soon became very heavy and we were obliged to camp pretty well tired out, having made only seven miles. The banks of the river are not very high and the valley is wide and thickly timbered with moderate sized spruce pine. A very heavy range of peaks, greatly resembling each other, runs along the west side of the river. Camp 13.

March 12-- This morning, Tom complained in Chinook jargon that his leg was "hi-yu sick" and so I determined to lay over and await the arrival of the others. I think it would amuse an outsider to see Tom and myself trying to communicate with each other in a medley of French, English, Chinook and Siccany, not to mention a great amount of pantomime. Tom washed his clothes out today using the ashes of cottonwood for soap. Wonder where he got that scrap of chemistry from. About noon, the others came up with the dog train and after dinner, we went a few more miles and camped as snow was wet and heavy.

March 13, 1866-- Tried a new approach this morning of traveling a good piece before breakfast and stopping when the road begins to get heavy along towards noon. Found it to work very well and I think we shall go on that system hereafter. Went on again after breakfast, but not very far, as the going was very bad as usual. The river is very crooked in this neighborhood and the mountains very high, but back from the river some little distance.

March 14-- Found the going very good this morning until the sun came up. Made nine miles before breakfast. Then it got so warm that the sun melted it and we had to stop for the day. Country still thickly timbered and a range of high mountains on each side of the valley.

March 15-- Today the snow is deep and heavy and extremely difficult for the dogs. Saw a carcajou or wolverine running along on the ice. I fired at him but of course missed him. These animals are very cunning and very mischievous. They break into and destroy the provision cache of the Indians unless they are constructed with great care. They manage to live through the winter upon marmots, which they catch in the summer and stow away in their dens. The timber on the river is getting smaller and less thick. Made seven miles today and hard work at that.

March 16-- Snow in worse condition today than it was yesterday, wet and sticky. Couldn't make but five miles and pushed the sledge ourselves all the way in order to do that. When we got in, the dogs were so tired they could hardly stand up. I hope we will come to better going soon or it will kill the dogs and at the rate of five miles a day it will take a long time to get to the Stikine river. Encamped today at the junction of a large branch from the north. The river here in about 200 feet wide. The character of the rocks in this neighborhood indicates coal beds beneath the surface.

March 17-- Snow today of a description that may be called "perfectly awful", it being the fathomless depth in which the dogs sink out of sight. With superhuman exertions, we made out to get four miles, but the dogs were perfectly clear beat and unable to stand. A couple more days of this will put an end to the dogs and the expedition. River along here runs through a very narrow and rocky channel, unnavigable for boats. Falls in the river about 15 feet high, four miles above the camp of last night.

March 18-- As our camp is in a most wretched spot, I determined to move forward again instead of lying over as I had meant to do, for the whole party is pretty well used up. Started off at daylight in a snowstorm. Found the snow in fine condition this morning with a crust on it nearly a foot thick. Got out of the canyon about three miles above the camp, beyond which, the river opens up beautifully and is full of islands. A pass opens out to the west about ten miles from camp 18 and nearly opposite to it we discovered a snowshoe track and directly afterwards an Indian lodge, the owner of which was evidently out on a hunt. Camped in a beautiful grove nearby.

"The pages for March 19 through April 27 are blank in the diary - no explanation. For this part of the journey, I copy the wording of a letter, said to have been written by Franklin Leonard Pope to his brother William Henry Pope who remained back home in Great Barrington, Mass. This supposedly was the second letter written from British Columbia, and dated June 15, 1866 in New Westminster, B.C.

The beginning paragraphs of the letter describe the events that lead up to the point where the diary entries stopped. What follows are the paragraphs which describe the events between March 23 and his arrival at Buck's Bar."